|
What is
the soul
of a great pub? Is it the building, the bar, the menu? Perhaps it's the
stories; those seasoned by time told together with those concocting
right now aided by the tongue loosening tang of a fine, hoppy
ale? We human creatures have a tendency to search for a soul that
is separate
but existing within the
corporeal much like an egg fried sunny-side up. We look for the golden
yolk of a soul, not quite as solid nor constructed as the cooked white
container surrounding it, but substantial nonetheless and perceivable
in its own right. I submit an omelet is a more apt metaphor; that
the form and the spirit of a pub, or a person for that matter, are
whisked together into one delicious mishmash, and that it's impossible
to extract or even distinguish a separate soul out of the
conglomeration.

Every pub has among its patrons an "alpha
male." Former mayor, fish slayer, and expert builder, George
Hrehowesik unquestionably holds that honor at the SERGEANTSVILLE, INN. The regulars
know to surrender unto him his favorite stool when George arrives to
hold court.
|
|
Undeniably,
an essential ingredient in our metaphorical omelet is
the communion of people who congregate amidst the bottles and the
glasses. These are the customers of course, and the management, chefs,
line-cooks, hostesses, kitchen workers, and dishwashers too, but for
the purposes
of this essay, I want to introduce you to the Friday evening serving
staff at The SERGEANTSVILLE INN
smack dab in the middle of charming Sergeantsville in heavenly Hunterdon County, New Jersey.
I want you
to meet
them because they deserve some
recognition, not only because they are as smart, congenial and as good
at their jobs as any staff you will ever encounter, but also
because these fellows well met are truly the heart of the place
and being served by them is like taking a bite of our aforementioned
existential egg dish. We get a taste of the pub's soul even if we
are unable
able to adequately define it. It's the Friday evening staff that I
present
herein
because that's the time every week when my good friend, WDVR FM and AMERICAN
PUBLIC HOUSE REVIEW colleague, Chris Poh and
I
lay claim to a pair of stools at the SERGEANTSVILLE
INN'S amenable bar.
The bartender's bartender, Dylan Carew, a
product of Hood
River, Oregon and Minnesota
State University, Mankato is, to our good fortune, now a
local Jersey boy. He will serve up your pint of Sierra Nevada Pale Ale with wit and good humor. Dylan
knows all of the latest bawdy jokes, but if you would rather
engage in a discussion regarding ancient Greek politics or the history
of our republic, he can accommodate you in that confabulation as well.
|
Servers are the Rodney
Dangerfields of professionals; "they get no
respect." Perhaps it's because we harbor the illusion that anyone
can do it. It may be true that most of us could go through the
motions, but how many of us can do it well? Bartenders and servers can
make or break an establishment. A customer feels
welcome when served with warmth and grace. She returns again and
again to delight in the hospitality. Conversely, when served by a
disgruntled grouch obviously demonstrating his wish to be somewhere
else . . . well, it prompts the customer to
wish that she were somewhere
else. To serve well is an inborn talent much in the manner of
musical or
artistic aptitude. It requires a specific class of empathetic
intelligence with which but a few of us are blessed. It might be
expected that good service requires a recognition of one's apparent
place in
the social hierarchy, but the opposite is true. Accommodation is
actually only given and received
when the equal value and selfsameness of all human beings are
understood
and accepted. In fact, the gift of service can only truly be
interchanged
when it is realized that to give is
to receive as the proverb above
reminds us.

John
Barkhorn works the dining rooms so we don't know him quite as well as
some of the other crew. We of course are bar rats. But John has an
interesting extracurricular life nonetheless. He is attending the American Academy McAllister Institute of Funeral
Service where he is studying the
art and science of embalming.
|
|
For better
or
for worse,
in this country, it has become the modus operandi to have our servers
work primarily for tips. The practice certainly adds a psychological
wrinkle to the service relationship, but it probably is the reason we
don't have
to pay twenty bucks for a sandwich at the bar. Please remember that
when you tip your barber, or your mailman it is in actuality a
bonus, but a
tip is the very manner in which your bartender gets paid for her work.
It's the only way she can pay her
mortgage, feed her family, and buy gas for her commute back to work
tomorrow so that she can brighten your evening with a smile as she
creates that perfect foamy shamrock in the head of your pint of stout.
So, let's raise our glasses to the fine staff at the SERGEANTSVILLE INN, And
here's to Joe Clyde, their
intrepid employer, and to Lisa Walker, the manager, overseer, and
sweater-of-the-small-stuff; both of whom, are very familiar faces to
us, but were not available for picture taking this particular
Friday afternoon. And here's also to everyone everywhere who makes
their living in
service to their brothers and sisters upon this ever-spinning ball of
exchange, of quid pro quo, of give and take, of tit for tat .
. . of life.
|
|
|
|
|

THE
SERGEANTSVILLE INN started
as a
private residence in 1734 and opened as a restaurant in the
first part of the
20th century. The Inn's additions and annexations of smaller
adjacent stone buildings over the years exhibit an interesting exterior
elevation and a comfortable interior ambiance complete with real
fireplaces,
bare stone walls, and conspicuous, original, hand-hewn timbers. This
popular landmark is now owned and operated by the celebrated chef,
Joseph
Clyde. Joe has created an
atmosphere that is casual, yet elegant and the fine dining is
exceptional. Chris and I both believe that the pub menu available in
the bar (the Covered Bridge Lounge) is among the finest we have ever
experienced in terms of value, originality, and delectability.
Kasey
Goyette, resplendent in red and Casey Maliscewski beaming in her black
uniform
are ready to cordially create the martini of your dreams behind the
bar, or warmly welcome you in the foyer. Kasey G. is the
consummate professional server and juggles her career with the
motherhood responsibilities of two young cherubs; one brand new.
Casey M is a past president of the National Honor Society, and a
student at Mount
Holyoke College. We know without a doubt that just
beholding these beautiful smiles has already brightened your day.

Carol
Weichler is definitely designed for determination as well as service.
Not only is this dynamo a topnotch waitress and bartender, but she is
also employed as a real estate agent for Century 21 all the while
working on a
nursing degree at Somerset
County Technical Institute. When do
you sleep, Carol?
Ryan
Irven gets all of the dirty jobs at the SERGEANTSVILLE INN
because he is the young pup of the crew. But aside from cleaning
tables,
toting ice, and mopping spills, he is an extremely talented
artist attending The Fashion Institue of
Technology in Manhattan; and we
do not say "extremely" in vain. Ryan is pursuing a career in
fine arts and computer graphics. He also exhibits a maturity beyond
his years that can belie the fact that you are talking to a man
not even twenty years old.

As
in many old buildings with a history, there are haunting stories of
ghosts spirited within the walls of the SERGEANTSVILLE INN. One
of its annexed buildings, now a dining room, used to be the town's ice
house where, in times past, corpses were kept as they awaited burial.
The staff's disquiet becomes palpable if you ask them about any
personal encounters. Kasey G had the fright of her life one night
downstairs in the wine cellar, and even the extremely skeptical Dylan
reluctantly admits to an unexplainable, otherwordly experience that
he'd rather forget. Madeleine, the owner's young daughter asked him one
time, "Daddy, who are the men in the attic?" . . .
Suffice it to say, there were no men in the attic.
This
is the exterior of the above-mentioned ice house. It encloses an
intimate and cozy dining room which is preferred by some of the regular
patrons. Perhaps that is a hapless ghost at the door who has locked
himself out. Other frequenters enjoy the Wyeth Room, the Library, or
the Wine Cellar downstairs as their favorite dining rooms.
|