For
New Englanders in the 18th century, Maine was as much beautiful and
bountiful as it was challenging and demanding. The Gulf of Maine
provided a living for most and a fortune for more than a few. But
it
also could be a bitter bedfellow, and often a lethal one. So
while
some towns may photograph like a painting, others bare the evidence of
that formidable relationship between New Englanders and the North
Atlantic. Some say it is in those places where the sea, and not
tourism, is still the center of life that you will find the soul of
Maine.
One of those towns is Rockland. Located near the picture postcard
settings of Owl’s Head and Camden, Rockland feels more like a true down
east working port. The character and personality of the city is
revealed in its most thrilling landmark, the Rockland Breakwater Light.
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ROCKLAND HARBOR
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ROCKLAND BREAKWATER LIGHT
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In
the mid-1800’s, more than one intense nor’easter battered Rockland
harbor, destroying part of the waterfront and a few ships as
well.
Realizing the potential the city had to be a major seaport, it embarked
on a project to construct a breakwater that would bring shelter from
the storms. The Rockland Breakwater, and the lighthouse situated
at
the end, took a herculean effort and almost twenty years to
build. But
it was worth the effort, and it stands today as a monument to the
perseverance and toughness of the people who tamed this difficult
environment.
So take the walk out to the end of the breakwater and enjoy the unique
and breathtaking view of the Gulf of Maine. Stroll Rockland’s
streets
and explore its museums, galleries, and shops. And when the time
comes
to rest your sea legs, try a place called the WATERWORKS
RESTAURANT for
a drink.
It provides the perfect backdrop from which to enjoy the results of
man’s best alchemy with water. They have an outstanding selection of
Maine microbrews. |
When
first viewed the building appears rather unassuming, but it too
holds historic significance to the town’s upbringing. For the better
part of the last century this utilitarian brick structure was used to
house and maintain the equipment of those charged with providing fresh
water to a community surrounded by salt and brine. In 1994 the Water
Company moved on, and fittingly the location emerged as one of
Rockland’s favorite watering holes. |
Inside
the bar area, it is hard not to notice the stone fireplace that
dominates the room. After some investigating and a nice conversation
with the bartender, I came to find that this room was where the company
stabled its team of horses, the mode of transportation for the fresh
water. So that huge fireplace, which would be impressive in even
the most posh mansion, was built not for the company’s owner but
to keep the equine employees from the elements, which can be more than
just a little harsh in the winter.
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Whether
you are at the bar in the Waterworks, strolling the streets, or
taking pictures of the Rockland Breakwater Lighthouse, you can’t help
but be reminded of the city’s working past and present. Where
some harbors seem to center around tour boats and expensive
rooms-with-a -view, Rockland still centers around what it knows best,
the hard work that can be the sea. But don’t get me wrong.
As much as Rockland is the quintessential working down east Maine
harbor, it is also worthy of a painting in its own right.
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A REPAST FOR THE SOUL
AS WELL AS THE BODY
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